Keeping
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Previous REPAIR TIPS
September, 2007--CHECK OUT YOUR FIREPLACE REPAIR TIP OF THE MONTH Home Repair Resource Center offers advice to do-it-yourselfers, through both our Nuts & Bolts newsletter and handouts in our Resource Library. Here is a sample of the information we provide:
CHECK OUT YOUR FIREPLACE Most people enjoy sitting in front of a cozy fire on a wintry evening. If you are lucky enough to have a fireplace in your home, it’s important to make sure everything is in working order before building that first fire of the season. This is usually a job for a chimney sweep. Fireplaces should be cleaned every two years, because as little as 1/8" of creosote (produced when wood is burned) can cause a chimney fire. Soot and creosote can cause respiratory problems, too. Clogged flues and other venting problems can cause a deadly build-up of carbon monoxide in the home In addition to removing creosote and other residue from the inside of the chimney, a reputable sweep should look at other safety issues:
In addition to conventional fireplaces, sweeps will also clean gas-burning fireplaces and fireplaces with wood-burning inserts. They may suggest a chimney cap, to keep animals from taking up residence in your chimney and prevent moisture from entering. (Water that drips down your chimney can combine with built-up creosote to produce acids, and with ashes at the bottom of the chimney to produce lye, both of which can cause expensive repairs.) Even after your chimney has been professionally cleaned and checked, remain safety-conscious when you use your fireplace. NEVER leave a fire unattended. Use screens or doors to prevent sparks from igniting materials nearby. Finally, make sure you have a working smoke detector and fire extinguisher on each floor of your home.(back to top)
STICKING DOORS Each winter, you can feel like a child again. You're able to explore rooms and cupboards in your house that are barred to you for the rest of the year--because the doors are swollen shut. Even if things aren't quite that bad in your house, you may have some doors that are stubborn most of the year, or doors that fight to stay closed even when you want them open. Winter is the time to do something about them. First, you need to understand why the doors are binding. There are several reasons that this can happen. To start with, as your house ages, door frames that were once straight-and-square can begin to sag (much like everything else.) When the door frame is no longer straight and evenly spaced around the door, parts of it will tend to catch on the door. Usually, by looking at the door, you will be able to see these areas. There are several ways to approach this problem. One is to remove both door and frame and reinstall them, making sure that the frame is put in place straight, level, and plumb--regardless of the condition of the wall around it. This process will usually take a few hours of work to accomplish A second and more practical approach is to shave the door down on the spots where it is hitting the door frame. You can use a belt sander, a plane, or even hand-sand these areas to make the door fit again. A third method that will work in a few cases is to remove the top or bottom hinge (depending on where the door is binding,) and place some small shims, such as pieces of cardboard, behind it to make the door fit more evenly. If the door binds at the top, place the shims behind the bottom hinge (or vice versa), and then reinstall the hinge However, the most probable cause for doors not fitting properly is not the settling of your home, but rather the much more inconspicuous problem of too much moisture. Moisture, in the form of water vapor, exists in every home. It enters the door through any area that isn't sealed--usually the bottom. (This is the least painted and cared-for part on most doors.) Moisture that is absorbed into the door causes the wood to swell up, until the door sticks and refuses to cooperate. In the summer, there is a lot of moisture in the air. But, in winter, with our modern central heating, we often need to add moisture to our homes to make them livable, usually with a humidifier. Even with a humidifier, though, there is seldom enough moisture to swell doors in the winter, and the wood "shrinks" to its normal size. So, you can make any needed door adjustments and seal the bottoms of your doors with some paint or varnish. When a door is properly installed, you should be able to fit a dime around all four sides of the door. If you use this winter for some preventative maintenance--getting each door to fit correctly--you'll reign freely over your house the next summer.(back to top)
HEAT SAVING TIPS In this time of rising energy costs, it is more important than ever to conserve wherever possible. Generally, cut heating costs by looking for places where cold air can enter, and sealing up those gaps and holes. If you feel a draft, fix it! Here are some specific things to check each fall:
FILLING YOUR TOOLBOX: Basic Hand Tools (everyone should have):
Optional Tools:
And, don’t forget a strong, durable toolbox that can be locked to keep children from injuring themselves with the sharper items.(back to top)
SNAKING DRAINS The most common source of drain blockage inside a home is an accumulation of the soaps and shampoos that we Americans use so frequently. Most of these products have a base of animal fat. When they are rinsed down the drain, they tend to cool and cling to the inside of your drain lines where they act like “glue,” causing other debris (hair, rust, mineral sediment in the water, toothpaste, coffee grounds, food particles, etc.) to attach themselves to the walls. The most vulnerable locations for this process to happen are the parts of the drain system furthest from the drain itself, or any places where the line is fairly horizontal and the speed of the running drain water slows down. A drain line from a sink or tub usually consists of pipe with an inside diameter of 1-1/2 inches, part of the system designed to carry away your waste water. However, as a clog slowly develops in the line, the diameter of the pipe is narrowed, slowing the water flow in it. This reduced flow then allows even more debris to cling to the sides of the drain line, exaggerating the problem further. Soon you can have an opening the size of a straw, which will eventually close totally. Once your sink or tub drain starts to slow, you have three options. The first is a chemical drain cleaner. Use drain cleaners only if water is still moving through the drain--once the line is blocked up, the drain cleaner just sits in one place, and is as likely to eat through the drain line itself as through the blockage. There are two types of liquid drain openers. One is caustic lye (like Liquid Plumber™ or Liquid Drano™.) The other is an acid solution (usually sulfuric acid), available in various strengths; the less diluted (and more effective) types go by the brand names of Assault™ or Release™. Whatever type you use, add the product cautiously, and follow all safety practices on the label. Your second option is a drain snake. A drain snake has a semi-rigid flexible cable, usually 25 to 50 feet long, with interchangeable cutting tips on the end. Some are hand-powered, and others are powered by an electric drill-style motor. An electric “sink snake,” slightly larger than an electric drill, is generally used to clear interior drains--sinks, bathtubs, basement floor drains, etc. However, some bathroom drains have pipes of a slightly smaller diameter (1-1/4”), where you may only be able to use a hand snake with a smaller diameter cable. For outside sewers and driveway drains, use an electric “sewer snake.” Blockages in sewer lines are usually caused by roots that have invaded the line. The only way to remove the roots is to use a snake with a cutter bit; drain cleaners will not eat through root blockages. (Use copper sulfate to prevent new root growth--see chart below.) Occasionally, a drain may be blocked by mud and sediment, which must be dragged out with a “mud head,” a propeller-shaped bit at the end of the cable. A sewer snake is powered by a larger motor and has a thicker cable that won't fit inside interior drain lines. The cables of sewer snakes vary in length and diameter; some cables are comprised of segments that attach to one another to make up the length required. Longer cables, or cables used to dig through mud in the sewer line, must be driven by a more powerful motor. Electric sink snakes and electric sewer snakes work in basically the same manner. Both have a forward (clockwise) motion and a reverse (used only if the cable snags in the line.) Feed the cable into the pipe you are snaking, in as straight a line as practically possible. If you are snaking a sink drain, remove the trap and feed the snake into the drainpipe that runs into the wall. Bathtubs are almost impossible to snake from the drain; you'll usually need to remove the overflow to get straighter access into the drain line. Some drains may have a clean-out (an attachment to your drain line designed to give access for snaking); if not, you may need to take the trap apart under the tub and go in through there. If you have a drum trap on the line, it will probably be impossible to snake the whole drain line from the tub; you’ll need to snake “upstream” and “downstream” from the drum. The main cutting tips on a snake are the arrowhead, the extractor, and the side cutters. The arrowhead tip is usually your first choice. Add the side cutters to the arrowhead when you have a particularly tough clog and need extra cutting action, and use the extractor to pull out debris after you are through the clog. Some snakes have a power feed, which automatically advances the cable; with the rest, you’ll need to advance and retract the cable manually. With these snakes, after you have fed the snake into the drain by hand as far as it will go, pull out about 12 to 18 more inches of cable and start using the motor with a forward motion. (When using the electric sink snake, push the orange collar forward to unlock the cable and pull the collar back to lock the cable in place.) The sink snake has a trigger mechanism, much like a drill, while the sewer snake has a foot pedal that you depress to start and stop the snake. As the motor turns the cable, physically push the cable into the drain and pull it back, repeatedly--much like rocking a car out of a snowdrift--as you work the cable into the drain line. Each time that length of cable goes in all the way, pull out another 18 inches of cable from the snake, and work the new length into the drain. Don’t allow too much cable between the snake and the drain; if it snags, the excess cable can wrap around your arm. You can usually feel when the snake cuts through the blockage, whatever it is. When you think you are through, pull the cable out and retract it into the snake by hand. (Hose down the cable on the bigger snake before returning it to the drum; on a smaller model, you can wipe the cable clean with a rag as you retract it.) Then, reassemble the drain and give it a try. On interior drains, follow up with drain cleaner once a week for a month or so, to help enlarge the hole you have bored through the debris with the snake. You've probably been wondering about your third option--calling a plumber! Given the cost of professional drain cleaning, however, it makes sense to try this repair yourself first. (Plumbers don't approach the job any differently, but they’ve had more experience and will be persistent.) If you get stuck, try a different tip, try a different angle, try a different access to the drain line--those are the same things a plumber will try. It’s usually by sticking with it that you can snake a drain successfully.
IF YOUR DOORBELL DOESN'T RING... How annoying it is to have a doorbell that doesn't work! But you can do more than hang up a “Doorbell out of order” sign. In most cases, broken doorbells are pretty easy to diagnose and cure. Most often the problem is in the doorbell switch. To check this possibility, you simply unscrew the doorbell button to get to the two wires that are fastened to the back. Touch those two wires together; if the switch is broken, the contact between the wires will make the bell ring. The current that flows through the wires is very low (10 or 16 volts AC), so you don't need to worry about getting an electrical shock If the switch isn't the problem, then the next place to check is the transformer. The transformer supplies the power to the system. It is usually a small black box attached to a beam or an outlet box in the basement. This unit reduces the 120-volt current feeding the house to the 10 or 16 volts needed to run the doorbell. Unless you have access to a low-volt circuit tester or a multimeter, the only way to tell if the transformer is the problem is to replace it. To replace the transformer, shut off the electricity to it by removing the fuse or shutting off the breaker that goes to that circuit. If you don't have a circuit tester to make certain the current to that line is off, then shut off all the power in the house to be sure. Remove the old transformer and connect the new one the same way the old one was wired. If your bell doesn't ring even after you've installed a new transformer, the next thing to check is the doorbell itself. You can buy a cheap bell and connect it in place of your present doorbell. While the bell unit isn't the cause of most doorbell problems, it can fail on occasion--especially if it is hung over the stove, where grease can clog it up. Dust, smoke, and grease can collect on chimes and obstruct the hammer mechanism. If you replace the bell but it still doesn't work, the only other place to look is in the wires that make up the doorbell circuit. Because these wires are very thin, they can break. But, if this is indeed the problem, it will take some tracking to find where the wire is broken. The wires are a little larger than fishing line, and you should be able to see them in your basement ceiling. However, breaks are usually found behind one of the door trim pieces. Once you've found the location of the break, you don't have to replace the whole length of wire--just the part that is broken. Twist the new portion together with the unbroken length and tape with electrical tape.
If you keep in mind that you are working with low voltage (except near the transformer), that you will pay a fairly low cost for any replacement parts, and that 95% of the work is inside the house, then making your doorbell work again is a job that can be done in any season. Of course, there’s another option that some people prefer--a “wireless” doorbell. Whichever solution you choose, you’ll no longer need that “Doorbell out of order” sign on your door! (back to top)
GARAGE DOOR REPAIR & REPLACEMENT Over the years, your garage door takes a beating. Not only can the cables and springs break under the repeated stress of moving that heavy weight, the door panels themselves can deteriorate from moisture or suffer impact damage. (We’ve all seen the effects of a “small miscalculation,” when a car has been backed into a closed garage door.) Faced with fixing or replacing your garage door, the first thing to consider is the type of damage that has occurred. If the door itself is solid, problems in the hardware that raises and lowers the door can usually be repaired at a relatively low cost. It’s not beyond the ability of most homeowners to lubricate balky rollers and track with white lithium spray grease and replace screws that have come out of position. However, replacing the lift cable or connecting the springs are jobs usually best left to professionals--accidental release of a spring under tension can cause serious injury!
If the door itself is damaged, it may not be necessary to replace the entire assembly. Some suppliers will sell single panels. You may not be able to match all the trim details, but you can usually get basic single- or double-car door panels in wood or metal On the other hand, if it’s time for a whole new door, spend some time considering your options before you select the replacement. The price will be determined by such things as size (single- or double-car), material (usually wood, wood composite, steel or fiberglass), whether or not the door is insulated, and the type of hardware you choose. You will also pay more for certain style details and to have windows included. Most installers will haul away your old door for an additional fee In addition to aesthetic considerations, your choice of door material will also determine the amount of maintenance that will be required. Wood or wood composite doors will need to be painted when first installed and will need regular painting. You will need to keep the bottom edge sealed with a rubber bottom seal to prevent water from damaging the wood. Steel or fiberglass doors will generally need less maintenance, but are more easily dented. Insulation is also a consideration if you have an attached garage or if you use the garage as a workspace in colder weather. A core of polystyrene foam in the door panels and weather-stripping will keep the space warmer. One of the most important choices will be the type of lifting spring you choose. Older doors will most likely have extension springs--springs attached on either side of the door, that stretch along the track next to each side of the door when the door is closed. The newer choice is to use torsion springs, which are usually placed just above the top section of the door and mounted to the header. This type of spring does not expand and contract when the door is moved, but instead is a wound spring that resembles a corkscrew. Advocates of the torsion spring point to increased safety for the homeowner and smoother operation because it better balances the door. Finally, consider any locks you may desire. If you will be using an electric door opener, you probably won’t need a lock on the door for security, but you may want a release mechanism on the front of the door in case of power failure--especially if there is no other access (man-door) to the garage. Garage doors have become increasingly important to the “look” of a property, so--whether you are repairing or replacing your door--you will want to make decisions that will give you the best appearance, function and safety.
SPRING HOUSECLEANING Most people schedule an annual “spring cleaning” inside their house. However, it’s also important to clean the exterior of your house each year, to remove dirt, grit, and other abrasives that can damage siding or masonry. Before you start the cleaning process, cover the lawn and plantings around your house with plastic sheeting. Seal up all vents, electrical outlets, and exterior light fixtures. Move lawn furniture away from the house, and make sure all windows and doors are closed. Next, clean by hand any areas stained by rust, mildew, or heavy grime. In many cases, detergent and a scrub brush will be sufficient. Remove rust stains with a solution of oxalic acid. (Follow up with a rust-inhibiting primer, or the stain will reappear.) A bleach solution will kill mildew spores. Organic stains can be removed with a solution of ammonium sulfamate powder. White, powdery deposits of crystallized salts (“efflorescence,”) commonly found on masonry surfaces, can be removed with a solution of muriatic acid applied with a wire brush. Rinse off all these products with clear water, and remember to wear protective clothing and goggles. After you have tackled the “trouble spots,” it’s time to begin the general cleaning of the house surface. For light cleaning, an automobile brush that threads onto the end of an ordinary garden hose will work well. (You can attach an extension wand to reach higher areas.) Many brush units have a reservoir for detergent, if you need it to remove the dirt. For houses that are more heavily soiled, use a gas-powered pressure washer. Make sure you rent one that can be adjusted to spray water at 1000 to 1500 psi. (Water delivered at a higher pressure can remove paint chips from your house. If your house was built before 1978, this process can contaminate the soil with lead-based paint. So, a pressure washer should not be used to remove peeling paint from older homes--just to wash off dirt and grime.) If you plan to use detergent and/or an extension wand, check that the unit has those capabilities. Follow all safety precautions when using a pressure washer, as it can cause injury to you or damage to the house if not handled properly. Work from top to bottom, cleaning overlapping sections about 5 feet wide. Do not spray directly at windows, as the water pressure can break them, and angle the spray down to avoid penetrating under lap siding or shingles. (back to top)
REPLACEMENT WINDOWS If you’ve been thinking about replacing your windows yourself, there are some things you should consider to make the job easier. In most cases, homeowners are looking to remove an old, drafty double-hung window and install a new, more energy-efficient window into the same opening. A double-hung window consists of two sashes (window glass surrounded by the frame piece), one atop the other. The sashes ride in separate sash channels, so that they can be raised or lowered, the top sash behind the bottom sash (see illustration of a typical “original window” below).
Typical original window being replaced Whether the new window you select is wood, vinyl, vinyl-clad wood, or some other material, it will be one of two types. “Replacement windows” (see illustration below) are designed to go into the same opening from which you removed your old window. The advantage is that the entire unit – sashes and frame – will slip into the existing opening without the need to remove the original jambs (frame pieces) or trim moldings.
Typical replacement window The main disadvantage of a replacement window is that there will be slightly less glass area than in the window being replaced, lessening the amount of natural light. Most people, however, will find that ease of installation far outweighs the small decrease in glass area. With a replacement window, you’ll be inserting the new window and its frame into the old window opening. If the original sill is still in good shape, it will be a fairly easy process. (If the sill is rotted or broken away, it should be repaired before installing the new window.) Although you’ll find that several common window sizes are readily available, you’ll need to “special order” replacement windows of other sizes. For special order windows, it is critical that you measure accurately. If a window that you order is made incorrectly due to your measurement, you may be stuck with it. To find the horizontal dimension, measure across the space that the lower sash sits in – from one side to the other, sash channel to sash channel. To find the vertical dimension, locate the stool (the “inside sill” – the window ledge on the inside of the house); measure from the point where the stool meets the sill, up to the top of the channel. If possible, have someone re-measure these same dimensions, to make sure your numbers are correct. (Some of the “high-end” distributors will even send out a representative to do the measuring, because they want to have a satisfied customer.) Installing your replacement window will involve removing the strips of molding that the sash slides against (called interior stops) and the side parting strips that separate the sashes. The sashes, cords, weights and pulleys are then removed. Pack fiber-glass insulation loosely into the cavity that the sash weight used to travel in, to minimize air movement. Apply a bead of good-quality caulk to the blind stop before slipping the new window into place. If you need to square up the window, use shims on the top, bottom, and/or sides before running the screws into place. Fill any voids between the old jamb and the new window with thin pieces of fiberglass batting or low expansion foam. Finally, re-install the interior stops with a bead of caulk to finish the assembly. “New construction windows,” on the other hand, are installed into the rough-framed openings before the casing (trim molding) is added. If you choose to replace your old window with a new construction window, you’ll need to remove all the interior and exterior molding from around the old window, and expose the rough framing. New construction windows have flanges (see illustration below) that are screwed or nailed through the wood sheathing (hidden beneath the outside trim) to the studs that surround the window opening. To determine the correct size of the window you need, you’ll probably have to remove the interior trim and measure the dimensions of the rough opening.
Typical new construction window When you are installing a new construction window in an old house, the walls may be thicker than in newer framing; in such cases, you may need to use extension jambs (pieces of wood that fill the gap). Any voids between the window jambs and the studs should be filled in with foam or fiberglass batting. Reinstall the trim after you have the new window mounted. No matter what type of window you choose, don’t go cheap. Be sure to buy a better grade unit from a reputable dealer. You’ll want a sturdily constructed window, one that will withstand the abuse of daily usage. Make sure that you’ll be able to get replacement parts 10 or 15 years from now, when Junior’s foul ball meets up with your window. Use caulk rated for at least 35 years, and better quality paint for finish work on the trim. That way, you can enjoy looking out your new windows, instead of repairing them in the near future. (back to top)
MAINTAINING YOUR DECK In 2003, a number of people in Chicago were killed when a third story deck broke loose where the deck framing met the building wall. Although there were a lot of people on the deck, the collapse was really caused by the failure of a plank (called a “ledger board”) that had partially rotted and split where the bolts attached it to the building. This was not an isolated incident; deck collapses are more common than one might think. While there are decks that fail because they are not built to code specifications, the most common problem is lack of adequate maintenance. When a deck is refinished, the joists, ledger board, and posts are seldom coated with the waterproofing material. Joists--shaded by the planking above and unable to dry out--can remain wet for a long period of time and eventually rot. So, it’s vital to conduct an annual inspection of a wood deck, especially an older deck on long posts. Homeowners can usually do most of the maintenance required, but if a deck is more than six years old (or if the age is not known), it’s wise to turn over the inspection to a professional who specializes in wood-frame construction. Start your inspection by checking the understructure to ensure the wood is solid. If you can push a screwdriver a quarter-inch into the wood, it’s time to replace it. Do the same test with the deck planks, too. If you replace any rotted planks, use galvanized or stainless steel screws instead of nails, to prevent the plank from pulling up. In addition to checking the condition of the wood, look carefully at how the deck was designed and constructed. The safest decks are those that are over-built. For example, even if the design load is for 40 pounds per square foot and the span chart calls for 2 x 8” joists, 2 x 10s will give more strength. Similarly, where a plan may have one support beam, a second beam, or more, can be added. To attach the ledger to the house, lag screws with washers are stronger than nails or drywall screws. (Here in the Snow Belt, it’s not unusual for structures to collapse with a 3-to-5 foot wet snowfall, often breaking right at the ledger board). It’s important that the railings are well secured and the spacing between balusters narrow enough to prevent small children from slipping through the railing--no more than four inches. Once you have checked the condition of the wood, you can work to renew its appearance. You’ll need to clean the surface of the deck before refinishing it. If you don’t wish to use chemicals, pressure washing alone will clean the deck enough to prepare it for refinishing. But, if it’s been a long time between refinishes, a commercial deck cleaning solution with oxalic acid (wood bleach) may be necessary to remove the dirt, gray coloring, mildew, and stains. Use a garden sprayer to apply the cleaning solution, and then clean the surface with a scrub brush mounted on a broom handle. Grease stains (under an outdoor grill, for example,) are tough to get out; a paste of TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) scrubbed into the stain will break up a lot of it. Then, use the pressure washer to finish cleaning. Let the wood dry for a few days before applying the finish. You can use a color stain water seal on the visible surfaces, but all the surfaces of the understructure should be treated with a clear water seal to prevent decay--especially the support beam and posts. Even with proper maintenance, decks won’t last forever. The life expectancy of an average deck, made with treated lumber, is 15 to 20 years. An annual inspection and periodic refinish is the best way to keep your deck attractive, protect your investment and prevent deck failure.(back to top)
FOUNDATIONS FOR NEW GARAGES Most of the garages in Cleveland Heights were built much differently than were the homes--and certainly not with the same level of quality. Many were erected right on the ground, with no foundation at all to support them. Often the floor (concrete or asphalt) was added after the structure was completed. Over the years, many of these garages with no foundations (or with foundations that are inadequate) have seen the bottom third of their walls and structural framework rot out due to ground dampness and snow accumulation. Moreover, the action of the wind pushing against the structure and the repeated freezing and thawing of the ground may have caused the weakened garage to move, with the result that the garage can end up leaning this way or that. If you are replacing your old garage with a new one, you can avoid such deterioration by installing a good foundation. There are two common types, either of which will satisfy City code requirements. The first type is best, but it does cost more. In this method, a footer is poured first, and then a short wall is added above it, molded from concrete or built from concrete block. The wall, built around the perimeter of the structure, is 6” to 8” wide and extends from 8” above the ground to at least 36” below the soil, or “grade” (so that it goes below the frost line). This perimeter wall is allowed to cure, and then a separate concrete floor, 4” thick, is poured inside it. After the floor has set, the garage walls are built upon and bolted to the foundation wall. This is the strongest design, one that is similar to the way homes are built. The other type of garage foundation is a monolithic slab (meaning “one piece”) of concrete, poured all at one time. The floor area is 4” deep before it thickens into a short wall formed around the perimeter, 6” wide and 8” above grade and 12” below. The garage framing is then bolted to this perimeter wall as it is erected. The disadvantage to this system is that all the stresses placed on the walls and roof (from soil heaving with the freeze-and-thaw cycle, tree roots. rain, wind, and heavy snow) are transferred to the floor, making it prone to cracking. Because the foundation is shallower, you are also more likely to have burrowing animals, such as skunks, make their home under your garage. If you are considering a new garage, you should be aware that most contractors' bids are based on the second type of foundation, because it is less costly. Although the first method is more expensive, it can be well worth that additional cost. Not only will the frame last longer and stay straighter, but it is also far less likely that you’ll have to replace your garage floor due to cracking--a project which would cost much more than the additional money you'd spend for the first type of foundation. It's never easy to decide to spend more money, but a new garage is a long-term investment. When making your choice, look to the future and consider the benefits of a good foundation. The extra money you spend might turn out to be a bargain five or ten years from now.(back to top)
HOME ENERGY AUDITS Homeowners with high heating costs may wish to consider a professional energy audit. A professional auditor uses various techniques and equipment to determine the energy efficiency of a structure. Before the audit, write down any problems (such as drafty rooms or condensation) and gather your energy bills from the last year. The auditor will measure the house and note doors, windows and other openings. You will also be asked about your lifestyle – the temperature at which the thermostat is set, the number of people in the house during day and evening, which rooms you use, etc. Most professional auditors will use a blower door test to determine how airtight your home is. A blower door is a powerful fan mounted into the frame of an exterior door. When the fan exhausts air out of the house, it lowers the air pressure inside, allowing outside air to flow in through unsealed cracks and openings. The auditor may use a smoke pencil to locate these drafts. The best blower door tests will use a calibrated door with instruments to measure the amount of the air pulled out of the house. This equipment will not only identify the air leaks, but also quantify the overall tightness of any air-sealing job. A second type of test offered by professional energy auditors is thermography--infrared scanning. This test measures variations in temperature to identify heat leaks and areas where insulation is needed. It can also determine if existing insulation has been installed incorrectly or if it has settled. Interior scans are usually more accurate than exterior surveys, because there is less air movement to deal with. The auditor will use special video or still cameras that make images of heat variations in the building’s "skin." Various infrared sensing devices may also be used to measure the tempera-ture of a given spot, but these instruments alone will not provide the necessary detail for a complete home energy audit. Don’t contract with a professional energy auditor, the U.S. Department of Energy suggests, until you have obtained and checked several references; checked with the Better Business Bureau; made sure the auditor uses a calibrated blower door; and made sure they do thermographic inspections (or contract with another company to conduct one). For more information, visit www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/your_home/energy_audits/index.cfm/mytopic=11160.
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